Friday, July 31, 2009

Thatch Problems

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Thatch can be a problem in your lawn.

We inspected a lawn this week that was just not responding the way is should. On inspection we found that the lawn had a very heavy layer of thatch.

Now by thatch we mean that layer between the soil and the green part of a lawn. Some people refer to dead or yellow grass blades as thatch. As in, "My lawn has a lot of brown in it. It has a lot of thatch." Well, that is just dead grass blades. Thatch is normally not visible until you start scratching the surface.

Thatch can consist of roots, stems and other organic matter. Some thatch is a good thing. A little bit will help prevent moisture from escaping too readily on a warm day. Somte thatch acts a cushion to prevent the soil from getting too compacted from foot traffic and mower wheels- anything that will push the soil down and drive the air (really we mean oxygen) out of the soil pores.

However, too much thatch can be detrimental to the health of the lawn. Too much thatch acts like a thatch roof and prevents water from penetrating into the soil. The rain and irrigation instead are carried off the lawn and into the storm sewers. Too much thatch prevents fertilizers from reaching the root zone. Too much thatch also increases the likelihood of disease problems. Chinch bug like to hide in the thatch. White grubs feed on grass roots as well as thatch. Anecdotal evidence would suggest that European chafer adults seem to know if a lawn has a lot of thatch and may be more likely to lay their eggs in lawns with excessive thatch.

So, how do you get rid of thatch and keep it away? First off, thatch is not caused by leaving the clippings on the lawn. Secondly, we don't normally recommend usin a dethatcher to remove thatch. While a dethatcher will indeed remove the thatch, this is really only a temporary solution. The thatch may be gone, for now, but without tackling the root causes of thatch, it will be back.

Our recommendation is to core aerate the lawn. Aerate it heavily, i.e. aerate it twice all at once. This will put that many more holes in the lawn. It will remove that many more cores. Each hole will allow oxygen back into the soil. This will encourage the bacteria and other soil fauna to grow and multiply so that they can decompose the excess thatch. Each core that lands on the surface will now "topdress" a small section of the lawn. The soil there will also encourage soil organisms to do their work. Grass roots will quickly grow into the core holes where there will be a better mix of moisture and air. As the grass roots flourish, so the lawn will become healthier.

If you want to speed up the process, the addition of more soil to the lawn surface will mean that the whole lawn will be topdressed instead of just the areas that have the cores. At the same time, sprinkle some grass seed over the lawn. Grass seed that fall into those aeration holes always has a better chance of growing. They are less likely to dry out, less likely to be snatched away by a hungry bird, and more likely to continue growing once they sprout.

In a few weeks, the lawn will start to turn around. This is not an instant cure, but it is the first step to a green, healthy lawn.

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
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Grubs have hatched!


Grubs have hatched- at least in Dunnville, Ontario. Todd found this grub in the lawn. Look out there will be more white grub problems down the road.
These are the larvae that have just hatched from eggs. Could be from Japanese beetle or European chafer. Either way, the grubs can damage a lawn in a hurry. Here in Ontario, the only solution is to apply nematodes, a biological control.
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Saturday, July 25, 2009

Summer Crabgrass Tips

With Crabgrass showing now in full force, what can be done about it?
In Ontario, we have a new Cosmetic Pesticide Lawn. Post-emergent crabgrass control products like Acclaim are now longer permitted to be used.

If you have a lot of crabgrass problems, now is the time to consider how best deal with this less than ideal grass.

First, recognize that the good thing about crabgrass is that it is an annual weed. When the first hard frost hits the lawns in the fall, crabgrass will die. It will be gone for the rest of the year. So at least we know that any crabgrass you may be seeing right now is only temporary.

The bad news about crabgrass, however, is that each crabgrass plant can produce thousands of seeds that can grow and infest your lawn next year. Any thing we can do to reduce the amount of seed that is produced will make our job that much easier for next season.

When the crabgrass is still young, it will pull out fairly easily. Hand pulling is a great option as it gets rid of the crabgrass and hopefully before it has a chance to seed. Sometimes a small hand trowel or a dandelion weeder is helpful in getting the roots out. If you hand pull after a good rainfall, the roots will come up easier. Crabgrass, fortunately has fine fibrous roots rather than a long, tap root like a dandelion.

If the size of your crabgrass crop has exceeded your ability to hand pull in terms of quantity and size, one option is to use the permitted non-selective herbicides. These products contain either acetic acid (vinegar) or soap based herbicides. Because they are non-selective, they will control not only your crabgrass, but they will damage the desirable turfgrasses as well. So, one has to decide if damaging the good grasses is worth it.

If you have a large amount of crabgrass, it may be worth the risk of damaging the lawn in order to combat the crabgrass problem. Spray the crabgrass patch carefully. Try not to get any of the spray onto those areas of the lawn that does not have any crabgrass. Use a shield of cardboard or other material to protect those areas of the lawn that you do not want the spray to damage. Once the crabgrass (and the good grass) start to yellow, spread some black soil on the damaged areas and spread some high quality grass seed. Keep the seed constantly moist by watering at least twice a day. As the new grass seed germinates it will help to fill in the spaces left by the crabgrass. The black soil, while it does look like a band aid solution on your lawn, at least shows that you are doing something about the crabgrass.

Later as the crabgrass starts to go to seed, do your best to remove as much of the seed heads as possible. As the crabgrass matures, it will start to spread out on the ground, laying flat and close to the surface. Sometimes you may be able to use a stiff rake to pull some plant out.

Another way to help reduce seed production is to rake the prostrate seed heads before mowing. That way they will be upright and vertical enough to be mowed off. Bag the seed head clippings and dispose of the seed.

As we get into the fall, continue seeding as needed so that the areas where the crabgrass problems occurred are growing in nice and thick. Add fertilizer to also help with the thickening and turf density. Crabgrass will die off with a hard frost and will certainly be gone by winter.

Next spring
Once the new season begins, plan to tackle the crabgrass by applying a corn gluten meal fertilizer in late April through early May. Corn gluten meal acts as a natural fertilizer as well as a crabgrass preventer. There is a protein in corn gluten meal that disrupts the normal root development of germinating seedlings. Without a proper root, those seedling will die from a lack of moisture. Corn gluten meal is active for about 4 weeks, so timing of the application is critical. About 20 lb. of corn gluten meal need to be applied to 1,000 sq ft of lawn. Remember that it is also a fertilizer, so do not apply another fertilizer at the same time.

Care of your lawn to reduce crabgrass.
Once you start mowing your lawn, make sure to set your mowing height to 3 inches. At 3", there will be more leaf blade height to shade the ground. Compared to a mowing height of say 2 inches, the 3 inch height provides an extra inch of leaf blade. That may not seem like much, but it is 50% more leaf blade. That extra shade it provides helps to reduce crabgrass germination.

Crabgrass likes to grow in warm, sunny spots. That's why you often find it along the edge of the driveway where the concrete or asphalt transfers its heat to the lawn adjacent to it. Crabgrass loves that warmer soil. By mowing your lawn at 3 inches, the extra shade will keep the ground cooler and more moist. Lower soil temperatures will help to increase the lawn density and the lawn's vigour. All of these factors will reduce the amount of crabgrass that will infest your lawn.

The higher mowing height also helps to reduce weed germination so that less weed control will be required. As well, cooler soil temperatures will help to reduce chinch bug populations and chinch bug damage, so your lawn care all around will be much easier.




If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
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Thursday, July 23, 2009

Slime Mold


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The sudden appearance of "foamy" patches of slime mold on lawns or wood mulch can be disconcerting. Slime molds are colorful organisms that usually appear in warm, muggy weather after a rain. They can be white, purple, gray, orange, yellow, or brown in color.

Slime molds first develop as a yellow or orange slimy mass and can ooze over areas 12 inches or more in width. To some people, the patches look like vomit from a dog or other animal.

As the weather becomes dry, most slime molds develop into crusty structures that are typically filled with dark spores.

Slime molds can be found lawns and the lower leaves of other low-lying plants as well as on mulch.

Slime molds use plants, wood mulch and other organic materials as a surface to support their spore-producing reproductive structures. They feed on dead organic matter and on bacteria and fungi found in the soil.

Slime molds do not infect plants. They are not plant parasites, but they may injure plants by covering and shading them thus reducing the amount of sunlight that reaches the leaves.

Control of slime molds generally is unnecessary. Slime molds are more of a curiosity than a problem. They will disappear if left to complete their life cycle. If their appearance is bothersome, they can be broken up with a rake, a mower, or a strong stream of water. To remove it from plants, simply wash or prune them. If management is required for cosmetic reasons, decrease irrigation to reduce slime mold incidence.

Slime molds are fungus-like organisms that have previously been classified as fungi, and later as Myxomycetes. They are no longer classified as fungi. Depending on the sources, there are now two or three different groups of slime molds, one of which is the myxomycetes. These now fall under the broader category of eukarya.

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Root Proliferator

Root Proliferator

What are the benefits of Turf King’s new fertilizer/nutrient supplement?

  • Acceleration and increase of root mass and volume
  • Improves overall lawn health
  • Improved nutrient absorption
  • More efficient use of water
  • Greater tolerance to drought
  • Greater resistance to disease
  • Reduced insect damage
  • Stimulates soil microbial activity
  • Reduces thatch accumulation
  • Reduces toxicity in the soil
  • Increases seed germination
  • Helps lawns to crowd out weeds


Our Root Proliferator is derived from plants. The process results in natural compounds, that because they are produced from plants, grass recognizes them and readily absorbs them. The calcium that is part of the compound, is very loosely bound in the particle, and is then quickly released and becomes available to the plant. This is unlike other agents that either are bound tightly, or are alone, like pure calcium or lime. The other products take a very long time being absorbed by the plants, and have very little effect. That’s why when applying something like lime to soil; it takes so much to have any measurable effect on the soil or plant. Once inside the plant, these nutrients fuel the Kreb Cycle, which stimulates root growth. The addition of calcium in this manner also has the most dramatic effect on ph. Our soils in this area, are not the most conducive for plant health and growth. Our Root Proliferator also affects the nutrients that have been bound up in our soil particles, making them available to the plant as well. Research has indicated, that results can usually been measured in the first year of application (unlike the 5-10 years it takes for other soil amendments.

  • Safe to use
  • Not harm to plants
  • Not Phytotoxic
Deeper roots and better plant health protect your grass from drought and heat damage as well as other stresses that can negatively affect the lawn,


If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
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The Flourish of Crabgrass


Crabgrass is one unwanted guest in home lawns. It's grass blades are wider than the desirable turf. Its light green colour is not as pleasing as the darker green of the Kentucky bluegrasses and fine fescues that we prefer. Normally crabgrass flourishes in hot weather. It is doing in spite of the cool damp conditions. Here is a stand of crabgrass along the edge of a driveway.

The cooler weather is certainly better for the lawns overall. We are finding chinch bugs, but the damage overall is less severe than if it was hot and dry. White grubs are on the horizon. European chafers are out there mating and laying eggs.

On that weather note, was speaking to our favourite sweet corn grower at Snyders Corn. Apparently the heat units for this season are about 500 units below average. And if you consider that the season is around 2,700-2,800 all told, that's quite a drop. His corn is just waiting for some warm weather and sunshine.

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
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Wednesday, July 22, 2009

DIY weed killers

Simply put, weeds are the bane of my existence. They surround our building -- peeking up from cracks in the concrete, mocking me as they brazenly poke their haughty heads through the weed-proof layer beneath the mulch. I hate weeds!

Luckily for me, living in a highly-urbanized downtown area doesn't leave much space for weeds to grow, which keeps my weed stressing at a tolerable level. I can't imagine how crazy I'd be if I had a real yard, with real grass, and lots and lots of real weeds. Suffice it to say, weeds and I don't get along, and I'm always on the look out for new, ingenious ways to kill them.

The most obvious way to kill weeds is to buy some name-brand chemicals from your local hardware store, and spray those suckers till they shrivel up and die. Over the years, however, there have been allegations made that certain weed killers are harmful to the environment (beyond the weeds) and wildlife. So what's the best way to get rid of weeds using safer, less expensive ingredients? The three most common DIY weed killers are:

1. Vinegar - Supposedly the high acidity kills weeds. It's cheap, fairly benign to the environment, but smells like... well, vinegar.
2. Bleach - Bleach isn't much better for the environment than store-bough weed killer, but I heard if used in small amounts, it will kill weeds and dissipate rather quickly.
3. Salt - Ever heard the saying, "salting the earth." Apparently salt makes the ground inhabitable to weeds, or any other plant for that matter.


So, how well did these DIY solutions stand up to the name-brand weed killer? As you can see in the video, none of them were quite as effective as the expensive weed killer I bought from the store (although the bleach came close). The biggest problem with simple, DIY weed killers is that they're not systemic -- they only kill what they touch, which leaves the weed wounded, but far from dead. A good weed killer gets inside the weed, destroying the root system and devouring the cells like a virus from a cool sci-fi movie.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3XcfC8qoRg
Still, the most environmentally-friendly AND cost-effective way I've found to remove weeds is by simply using a little elbow grease and pulling those suckers out by hand (roots and all). Sure it takes a lot longer, and isn't nearly as easy as spraying them with dangerous chemicals, but it gets the job done while having the least impact on your surrounding environment, and in the end, that's all that matters.

NOTE: No matter how tempting it may seem, do not mix the bleach and vinegar together to make a super weed killer like this person did. The combination will create toxic chloride gas, which is not a good thing.




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Neem for the Bathroom


Neem Oil has uses for your hygiene. Toothpaste and anti- bacterial and anti-dandruff treatments.
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Meet the Beetles

Monday, July 20, 2009
Meet the Beetles


They're the pest known the best, and as the saying goes, familiarity breeds contempt.

A mere mention of the Japanese beetle sends shivers up the spines of tri-state gardeners. And little wonder why.

These bugs want to take a bite out of more than 300 plant varieties, according to the Iowa State University Extension, and they're not put off by no trespassing signs.

"They're pretty much everywhere, especially up there in Dubuque," said Mike Griffin, Iowa Department of Natural Resources biologist.

The critters have been spotted this season in Illinois, Iowa and Wisconsin, and they are likely to hang around for a while. Although they emerge mid-June, Japanese beetles enjoy making themselves comfortable for months.

"I think we're going to pretty much wait until it gets cold at night," Griffin said.

By Bekah Porter http://www.thonline.com/article.cfm?id=250497

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Control Poison Ivy with Goats- No Kidding

Goats to picnic on brush at Pasadena park
Part of Resolution Park is 'challenging' for mowers

By Nicole Fuller | nicole.fuller@baltsun.com


In yet another partnership between Maryland government and goats, Anne Arundel County Executive John R. Leopold said that the munching power of a herd of 40 goats will be employed to help clear invasive vines and plants from a half-acre site at Hancock's Resolution Park in Pasadena.

Monday's announcement came two months after the State Highway Administration enlisted another group of goats on a similar mission in Carroll County to protect the habitat of the bog turtle.

The goats, on loan at no cost to the county from Garden Farms in Davidsonville, are scheduled to graze on overgrown bittersweet, honeysuckle and poison ivy plants for two days later this summer. On Aug. 2 from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., park visitors can watch the goats at work.

In the past, county officials had used manpower and heavy machinery to clear undergrowth and vines and allow for the growth of the native oaks and hickory trees on the site, but they wanted to use a more environmentally friendly method, said Karyn Molines, supervisor of cultural resources at the county Department of Recreation and Parks. Molines described the area where the goats will graze as "very challenging."

"A group of 40 goats will just descend on the problem plants and just devour them," said Brian Knox, owner of Sustainable Research Management Inc., a natural resources consulting firm that connected the county with the goats. "They're very effective. They love to eat poison ivy. They can get on steep and rocky ground. They're really adept at reaching things that you can't do by machine and by hand."

Jim Morrison, president of Friends of Hancock's Resolution, said the group is "thrilled."

"We wholeheartedly support this," Morrison said.

The park, a historic farmstead, is situated on Bodkin Creek, the site of explorations by Capt. John Smith in 1608 and battles during the War of 1812. The area cleared by the goats will serve as a site for historical re-enactments.

"This use of goats for targeted grazing serves as a role model for other parks and sends a strong conservation message to the community," Leopold said in a statement. "Goats provide a unique opportunity to move toward economical, sustainable and ecological weed control and away from methods relying on the use of heavy equipment or herbicides."

Copyright © 2009, The Baltimore Sun

http://www.baltimoresun.com/news/maryland/anne-arundel/bal-md.ar.goats21jul21,0,5192596.story

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White Grub that had stumped me.

A couple of years ago we found a huge white grub in the rotting stump of a tree. Looked just like a white grub we find on lawns, only bigger.

Today read a post Morgan County Herald about stag beetles whose larvae are found in stumps.


My guess is that we were looking at a stag beetle larva.

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Gardens need summer pruning

Gardens need summer pruning
Published Tuesday, July 21, 2009 10:30 AM
Berkeley Independent

It is time for some hot, summertime pruning. Many of your spring blooming plants have finished blooming and need to be pruned before they set their flower buds for next year. Arm yourself with a pruning saw, a pair of loppers that can cut up to two inches, a good pair of hand pruners, a water jug, a wide bream hat, sunscreen and a can of wasp and hornet freeze and get ready to sweat (I know you lady gardeners ‘glow’)!

Be sure your saw, loppers, and pruners are sharp and in good working order as this will make your pruning easier and what you are cutting will appreciate it as well (you would not want someone cutting on you with a dull scalpel)!

Azaleas are getting ready to set their flower buds for next year, so it is very important to do any pruning on these plants right away. Even if you pruned them hard right after they bloomed, you can still do any touch up pruning to manage any growth that might have occurred since the last pruning.

Any of the repeat blooming azaleas (Encore, Red Slipper) should be pruned right after they flower. If you prune fairly hard, you will likely lose some of the next flush of blooms; however, they should get back in sync fairly quickly, providing you multiple blooms.

Gardenias can be a little tricky as well. There is a variety called “August Beauty” that blooms in August. If you have this variety, you will want to delay pruning until after they bloom in August. Other Gardenias and the Dwarf Gardenias, if they need shaping, can be pruned as soon as they finish flowering.

Indian Hawthorn can be pruned as needed. Watch out for the leaf spot disease that attacks these plants. Honor Guard does a good job of keeping this fungus in check; however, this disease will always be out there so regular spraying is a must. Also, when spraying fungicides, it is important to switch chemical classes to avoid resistance.

Contact a local arborist for pruning trees that have limbs rubbing on your roof or are potentially dangerous. Many trees were damaged almost twenty years ago during hurricane Hugo in the Charleston area, and the rot in certain areas has grown to a dangerous level in certain trees.

If you remove a lot of foliage when pruning, remember this foliage use to keep the roots of the plant cool. Some cotton burr compost used as a mulch will help cool the roots and provide nutrients to the plants.

If you are taking a vacation this summer and have St. Augustine grass, be sure to put out an insecticide to protect your lawn from ‘the nasty rascal, the chinch bug.’ Chinch bugs can do serious damage in a very short period of time.

Fire ants, yellow jackets, fleas, mosquitoes, flies, gray leaf spot, salt water damage, moles, roaches and the weather seem to be other hot topics at Possum’s this week.

Bill Lamson-Scribner can be reached during the week at Possum’s Landscape and Pest Control Supply, 481 Long Point Rd in Mt. Pleasant (971-9601), 3325 Business Circle in North Charleston (760-2600), or 606 Dupont Rd, in Charleston (766-1511). Fax your questions to 406-2700 or e-mail them to your newspaper’s editors. You can also call in your questions to the Garden Clinic, Saturdays 11:00-11:30 AM, on News Radio 94.3 FM (721-TALK).


http://www.berkeleyind.com/culture/Gardens-need-summer-pruning2009-07-21T07-30-32






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Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Summer lawn problems noted

REEVES: Summer lawn problems noted

By Randy Reeves

Sunday, July 19, 2009

It's that time of year again — time for another season of hot summer lawn problems. As if being able to put out enough water wasn't hard enough, now we add being able to afford to have a high water bill!

Through the first part of September, we will probably start seeing more damage from chinch bugs and grub worms.

Chinch bugs thrive in hot, dry weather and feed primarily on St. Augustine grass, but can also damage centipede, Bermuda and zoysia grass. They prefer areas of the lawn that absorb heat, like areas near driveways, sidewalks or a foundation of the house.

Chinch bugs are thought to insert a toxin that kills the grass while they are feeding. They feed on stems and nodes near the base of the plant, leaving brown patches of dead grass that will continue to grow if left untreated.

Chinch bugs are small. Adults are black with white wings that will show a triangular spot on the back. If you suspect chinch bugs, look at the outer edge of the infected areas and part the grass with you hands. You will have to look quickly, though, because they move fast. Yes, you will have to get down on your hands and knees to achieve this feat!

Some folks claim that they can use a coffee can. With both ends cut out, slip the can on the ground and fill it with water. The insects will float to the top. Well, when I do this, everything floats to the top — soil, small sticks, dead grass and everything but the chinch bug!

Your next question is what to treat with if you have chinch bugs.

There are several products on the market that do a good job — Carbayl (Sevin), Acephate (Orthene) and Bifenthrin (Talstar) to name a few. The first two should be readily available at local farm supply stores in the area. As always, be sure to read and follow the label instructions on mixing and applying these products.

White grub damage can also be one of the causes. Damage from grub feeding is easy to diagnose. They feed on the roots, and the grass will easily pull up like a carpet due to the lack of a root system.

For chemical control for grubs, you can use the products listed above. Products that contain "Merit," which is one of the newer target-specific products, will also work well on grub worms.

If you select and use a granular product, you will need to be sure and water the lawn well to move the product into the root zone where the grubs are feeding. This is another reason the read and follow label directions.

Another problem we are seeing in the area — and I have been to a few home lawns to see this — is our old friend the "Take-All Patch." This lawn disease or fungus infects the roots on the stolons of lawn grass. St. Augustine and centipede grass are the main targets here.

The disease will attack the roots and weaken the turf. When we have a dramatic change in the weather, like 102-degree days and lack of rainfall, the grass is stressed and will show signs of damage.

One method of controlling this disease is to lower the soil pH to a level that the disease finds hard to survive.

One way to do this is to make an application of peat moss at a rate of one 3-cubic-foot bale per 1,000 square-foot area now, then make two to three applications of an appropriate fungicide 14 days apart in the fall.

Fungicides that will or should do a good job are Myclobutanil (Immunox), Fenarimol (Rubigan), Azoxystrobin (Heritage) or Propiconazole (Banner Maxx). Some of these fungicides listed are really expensive and you may get a case of sticker shock. Immunox is readily available, works well and is one of the less expensive ones to use.

For further information on Extension programs, call us at 903-935-8413 or visit us on the web at http://harrison-tx.tamu.edu.

IIf you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:

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Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation

Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation
By Jackie Tyler Platinum Quality Author


A healthy lawn can endure grubs feeding on it. The damage will not be as apparent as on a lawn that is weak or stressed. Such lawns can prepare themselves. Try to provide the best environment possible for your lawn, such as proper drainage. When moisture levels in the ground are elevated, more damage will result. Proper drainage for your lawn includes removing thatch, which can't be done manually with a rake or with a dethatching machine. This will help to aerating compacted soil, aiding in proper drainage.

The eggs that the beetles lay, generally in late July or early August, are done so in a short lawn. Therefore, it is advisable to raise your lawn mower in order to lengthen the grass and discourage egg laying on your property. The optimum height for grass should be between 21/2 -- 3 inches. Other benefits that come with longer grass shards are less watering, because the soil maintains hydration longer, reducing water consumption, hence, reducing costs.

With that said, water your lawn deeply once per week only. What you are trying to achieve is water going beneath the roots to encourage deep grass roots. If you are unsure as to how much water is enough, this tip will help: place a container near your sprinkler to collect water; once the container fills with about one inch of water, that's enough.

Clean your lawn in the fall, thoroughly. Don't allow it to winterize with dead leaves or weeds. Use a rake to remove the thatch as this can expose the grubs to animals that want to feed on them.

You can physically pick beetles by hand as well, although most of us don't have the time or the desire to do so. If you notice grubs, you must understand that they will and are feeding on the roots of your grass, therefore, apply fertilizer with high potassium and seed in those areas in order to keep grass healthy.

Another method to control grubs in your lawn is by applying milky spore. This literally kills them and it is an environmentally safe product which is a bacteria.

Does your lawn look like a tank drove through it or some people played golf on it while you were sleeping? If so, your lawn is probably infested by white grubs. You must act quickly, before they take control of the turf. Don't miss the optimum time to get a hold of the situation. Get all the information you need about treating white grubs at Milky-Spore, it has the solution.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Tyler

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
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Monday, July 20, 2009

New/Old Weed Control for Ontario

Posted by Picasaadf
Saw this gentleman going to town on his hands and knees - getting the weeds out of his lawn. Now that Ontario is severely restricted in the availability of legal herbicides that do work inexpensively and effectively.


If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
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Copyright 2009 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.


Japanese beetles have become an annual nuisance

Japanese beetles have become an annual nuisance in yards and gardens throughout the area. They are appearing on a variety of host plants and are likely to be around for the next four to six weeks.

Japanese beetles have several characteristics that make them significant plant pests. First, they are most active in mid-day in bright sunlight, usually in large numbers. Second, they have a very wide host range because more than 200 species of trees, shrubs and flowers have been documented as feeding targets. Favorites on the list seem to be linden, maples, crabapple, elm, grape and roses.

The other characteristic that makes them significant is their feeding habit. Adult beetles congregate on the outermost foliage in bright sun and consume tissue between the veins of the leaf. This damage is called skeltonizing. Leaves will turn a very visible brown and may drop.

Finally, these pests lay eggs in the soil that hatch into white grubs, potentially creating a concern for turfgrass damage later in August and September. Seeing beetles swarming now does not necessarily mean lots of grub damage later. There is still plenty of time before they turn their attention to lawns, so watch for details on white grub management next week.

In the meantime, what can one do to stop the beetles? Foliage damage can be lessened, but not eliminated, using insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin), or products containing cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Advanced Multiinsect Killer) or labeled insecticides containing pyrethroid. Read product labels carefully before purchasing or applying them. Treatment is most often suggested for smaller plants or new transplants, rather than large established trees. The earlier the better, so act as soon as beetles start feeding.

Research has shown Japanese beetle traps may draw more beetles into the area and not into the traps, so potentially, plant damage could increase. Another option on smaller plants is to hand pick the beetles off. Drop or sweep them into a container of soapy water.

• Send questions to Bruce Spangenberg, c/o the Features Department, Northwest Herald, P.O. Box 250, Crystal Lake, IL 60039-0250.
http://www.nwherald.com/columnists/columns/2009/07/17/r_qbxatmvvqq2fm6inkc2kzq/index.xml




If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen
Join our Facebook page  

Copyright 2009 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.