Showing posts with label lawn damage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawn damage. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Lawn Care Challenge

This lawn is in more than rough shape. It appears to have been neglected for some time. Lawn care is certainly essential to maintaining a healthy green lawn.
The bare and thin spots did not yield any white grubs or leatherjacket larvae. The thin lawn is likely to have been caused or exasperated by chinch bug damage.
The thinned out turf coupled with a lack of nutrients has also permitted moss to get a toehold on the lawn.

Our recommendation would be to aerate and overseed heavily with a high quality lawn seed mixture that contains endophytic perennial rye, in order to restore a healthy population of grass plants in the lawn.

A program of regular applications of a high quality, slow release fertilizer will help to thicken the lawn and to increase its density.


CLICK TO WIN...with Turf King!!
Win $300 worth of professional lawn care services
or 1000 FREE AIR MILES reward miles.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Grub Damage Recovery Plan

Angie emailed about animals digging in her lawn. Here is our recommendation to her.


Angie, Thanks for your response

The digging by animals is a problem. Most likely there are grubs there. There are not insecticides currently allowed for the treatment of grubs. Nematodes can be used in warm weather. (mid Aug to mid Oct). One problem with nematodes is that they may only control 50-75% of the grubs (if we are lucky). Also it does take time for the grubs to die, therefore, sometimes the skunks and/or raccoons may still come for dying grubs or for the ones that were not controlled.

To look on the bright side, the animals digging for grubs are at least getting rid of some grubs. If you could train them to put the sod back after they are finished, we could hire them.!

The grubs do survive the winter. The animals may be back next spring. By the spring, I would not recommend treating at that time. Nematodes could technically be used in the spring once the soil warms up. Even when chemical insecticides were available, I normally did not recommend treating for grubs in the spring.

Reasons for not treating.
1. Most of the damage to the lawn by the grub is done in the fall. Some feeding does occur, but generally it is minimal
2. Spring grubs have now reached close to their maximum size and are harder to kill with insecticides.
3. Even if they could be controlled, the grubs in your lawn are not necessarily the source of the next batch of grubs to invade your lawn. (grubs pupate in May-June, then emerge as adults in June-July. The adults can fly. This means they can go to other lawns to lay their eggs which then hatch into baby grubs.) So even if we got rid of all the grubs in your lawn, adults from down the road, across the street or from a neighbourhood park, may still fly over to your lawn and lay eggs in the soil. Controlling the grubs in your lawn in the spring will mean less adults flying in your neighbourhood, but not necessarily any less eggs laid on YOUR lawn.

What should you do?
Once the animals have stopped coming to your lawn, replace the sod pieces as best you can, (green side up.) Don't do it every morning, because, most likely they will come back and rip up the same piece tomorrow night. At this time of year, it is cool and damp, the sod, if it is still alive, will survive a few days on its back. By waiting you will be less frustrated - hopefully you replace the sod only once or twice.

If the damage is very minimal, sometimes a couple of pieces of sod, may be an easier fix. Do this if sod is available.

In the spring, add some soil as needed, and sprinkle lots of good quality grass seed that is appropriate for the sun/shade conditions of your lawn. If it is both sunny and shady, and you only want to purchase on type of seed, use shady grass seed. Shady grass seed will grow better in the sun than sunny grass will in the shade.

If the damage is very severe, the easiest way to get grass back is to aerate and overseed. Seeds falling in the aeration holes are protected from drying out, and from the birds. 

Feed the lawn to help it recover from the damage. Good quality fertilizer is important to help the lawn fill the spaces where the roots have been eaten by the grubs.

Consider doing a nematode treatment for Late August- September to control any grubs from the next generation.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Mowing Stripes

On the ball diamonds and soccer fields, mowing stripes are a visual pattern used to enhance the aesthetics of the lawn. 

Sometimes the stripes are not so desirable.
Visited this lawn, noticed stripes in the front. These lines are definitely caused by the lawn mower wheels.

Could be due to the spread of a disease such as pythium.
Or a simpler answer, could simply be that the lawn was mown when the lawn was under stress. That stress could have been from the high temperatures we have been getting or it could have been drought stressed. The weight of the lawn mower on the thin strip of grass is enough to cause the lawn to suffer. 



www.hamiltonturfking.ca

Friday, July 9, 2010

Lawn Mower Blade Speed

Ever wonder why the rotary lawn mower can cause the lawn to be damaged. Here on this lawn, this spot is obviously caused by the mower itself. Harder to see in the photo, but the grass blades are bent in a circular direction. Why is it that the centre is green? Then an area with the most damage and then areas that seem okay.

Rotary mower engines are made to spin at 3,600 revolutions per minute when not under load. During cutting, the rpm drops to between 2800 and 3300. 


The centre of the blade is spinning at 3600 rpm, but the velocity of blade itself will vary depending on the length of the blade.  An 18 inch blade tip will travel through the air at one speed, a 21 inch blade at a faster speed and so on. This also means that the centre of the blade is travelling slower than the tip.


Does the speed of the mower affect how well the grass is cut? Often if the grass is thick, I find there is a strip of grass that does not get cut very well. If the riding mower is set at a lower speed, this strip in the centre get cut better than if the speed of the mower is faster. In this case, the grass in the middle does get the mower blade passing over it, but at some times, the centre of the blade is also over this area and not cutting is done. At the side, the cutting edge which is at the end of the blade is over the lawn longer -therefore that area gets cut better.


So now in the case of the circle in the picture, did the brown area get cut more by the centre of the blade, that part that is not sharpened. So that there was more tearing of the blades, rather than cutting with the sharpened part? Tearing of the blades would cause more stress and more damage to the lawn than being cut by the sharper part of the blades at its ends.


The cente didn't get cut at all when the mower was sitting over this spot. It got cut when the mower moved on. Then it was cut by the sharper part of the blade -hence very little damage.


I don't know if I am 100% right, but that's my theory.







Thursday, June 3, 2010

Turf Disease- Dead Spots on the Lawn?

Lots of lawns are suffering from the hot humid weather of last week. Temperatures were close to 30 C. These sorts of conditions put the lawns to a great deal of stress. This patch of lawn was newly sodded either this spring or last fall.

Large areas have turned brown. According to the homeowner, this happened very quickly.

Pythium is a disease that can be highly contagious and does spread quickly. Often, the lawn mower can be a caouse of spreading the disease. In this situation, you can see the marks left by the mower wheels in the lawn. Where the disease was spread by the blades and mower body the pattern is less distinct.


 

Some cases the lawn deteriorates quickly. Most often, the lawn will recover, but it may take some time. Overseeding will help to fill in some of the damaged areas.

To prevent further spread, refrain from watering that will leave the lawn damp through the night hours. Do not mow when the lawn is wet or in hot temperatures. Mow at 3" high minimum. Use a slow release fertilizer. We'd recommend something with 75% slow release nitrogen. Finally, mow the diseased areas last to minimize spread to the healthy parts.

www.hamiltonturfking.ca

Monday, October 26, 2009

Weeds on Stones

Weeds have the ability to grow in some unlikely spots. We don't want weeds to grow in our lawns and we go to great lengths to keep them out and away from our tidy green patches of "our turf."
With the new Cosmetic Pesticide Ban now in place in Ontario, people are looking for ways to control weeds not only in their lawns but in other places as well. The shelves of the garden centres and hardware stores had to be empty of any of the banned pesticides by April 22, 2009.
Soon after the ban, I went into one national retailer to see what was on the shelf. No lawn weed killers but a rack with a couple hundred bottles of Roundup which contains glyphosate. Now in Ontario, glyphosate is the only active ingredient that is allowed to be used for "proscribed" uses. This includes uses such as controlling poison ivy, since this would be for health and safety and not cosmetic reasons.
I bought a bottle just to see if anyone would stop to tell me that the only place I could use the Roundup was on poison ivy. Using it to kill weeds on my driveway or on my patio would be illegal. (you wouldn't want to use glyphosate on your lawn as it is non-selective and will kill both weeds and lawn grasses.) No one stopped me or cared that I was buying Roundup. It wasn't until I left that store that I looked at my cash register tape, and there was a small note telling me to go to the provincial website to find out where this product could be used. Fine time to tell me after I bought the product.


You can buy vinegar type products in the stores now. They are basically acetic acids of varying strengths. The ready to use product is about 6% acetic acid, the household vinegar that you buy for your pickling is 5%. The packaged products may also include some citric acid to help with the weed control.
I have tried both vinegar and the packaged eco products. Both work quickly when it is sunny. Acetic acid will quickly blacken the leaves of your plants by removing the protective waxy coating on the leaves. The plant is more likely to have the leaves destroyed on a sunny day.
Acetic acid treatments work very quickly on the top part of the plant. Although grasses are less likely to be damaged, they will turn yellow and the tops will die. Fortunately, the grass will recover in about 2 weeks, 3 at the most.
Unfortunately, the weed roots are rarely destroyed, and many will regrow from the roots.
Similarly, you can use other household products to give similar effects. Household ammonia, another acid, will brown clover leaves, at least temporarily, while the lawn will recover. Baking soda is alkaline, and will create condition in the soil that make it harder to grow plants. Here the lawn is also affected.
In areas where no plants are desired such as along the driveway, a solution of water and salt will also kill off the top of the plants.
Any products that are used in these situations should be used with care and caution. Preparing, storing, and using homemade pesticides could pose risks to your health and the environment.

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN, the King of Lawn Care:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen
Join our Facebook page  

Copyright 2009 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.



, Posted by Picasa

Friday, September 11, 2009

Chinch bugs hate the shade

The King of Green has always said that chinch bugs are "Sunny Weather" friends. They prefer the sun and dislike the shade.
Not sure if you can see this well, but this lawn has a hedge running east-west along the southern edge of a lawn. So the lawn along the hedge is shaded most of the time because it is on the north side of the hedge. The chinch bugs have decimated the lawn. All they have left are the quack grass, crabgrass, and a lot of dead grass. The lawn damage is extensive.

Hard to tell if the weeds are there because the chinch bugs left them behind or if they jumped into the lawn because the chinch bugs destroyed the lawn, and reduced the turf density.

If you look closely you will see that there is a strip of lawn about 2 feet wide along the hedge that (while far from good), is not as damaged as the rest of the lawn.

Call Gerry Okimi at Turf King 905.318.6677.
Lawn care at its best. http://bit.ly/3ehXf

We have treatments available for chinch bugs.
We can also repair the lawn by our overseeding treatments.
Posted by Picasa

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Lawn Repair Time

Fall is an ideal time to get your lawn in shape. Lawn care is especially important at this time of year.
There are several reasons why your lawn can need some help. Now is a good time to thicken the lawn.

Crabgrass can be problem in many lawns. Overseed to help crowd out crabgrass next year. If tthe lawn is thick, crabgrass is less likely to grow. Make sure to mow the lawn at 3" high. A higher mowing height is one of the things you can do to help reduce crabgrass.

Chinch bugs can also devastate a lawn and leave it in need of repair. Sometimes a homeowner says they need weed control. But sometimes it just the chinch bug damage has left the lawn thin and weak. Weeds jump into the bare and thin spots. What is perceived is a weed problem may just be the result of a chinch bug infestation.

Japanese beetles and European Chafer can lay eggs that hatch into white grubs. These larvae feed on the roots of the lawn. The only method of control for grubs is to use nematodes.

One way to seed the thin spots in the lawn is to add some soil to the bare spots. Sprinkle the soil, then level it out. Spread some high quality grass seed over the soil. Rake it lightly to help cover the seed. Water lightly daily until the seed has germinated. Keep watering as needed for a couple more weeks.

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen
Join our Facebook page  

Copyright 2009 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.


Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation

Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation
By Jackie Tyler Platinum Quality Author


A healthy lawn can endure grubs feeding on it. The damage will not be as apparent as on a lawn that is weak or stressed. Such lawns can prepare themselves. Try to provide the best environment possible for your lawn, such as proper drainage. When moisture levels in the ground are elevated, more damage will result. Proper drainage for your lawn includes removing thatch, which can't be done manually with a rake or with a dethatching machine. This will help to aerating compacted soil, aiding in proper drainage.

The eggs that the beetles lay, generally in late July or early August, are done so in a short lawn. Therefore, it is advisable to raise your lawn mower in order to lengthen the grass and discourage egg laying on your property. The optimum height for grass should be between 21/2 -- 3 inches. Other benefits that come with longer grass shards are less watering, because the soil maintains hydration longer, reducing water consumption, hence, reducing costs.

With that said, water your lawn deeply once per week only. What you are trying to achieve is water going beneath the roots to encourage deep grass roots. If you are unsure as to how much water is enough, this tip will help: place a container near your sprinkler to collect water; once the container fills with about one inch of water, that's enough.

Clean your lawn in the fall, thoroughly. Don't allow it to winterize with dead leaves or weeds. Use a rake to remove the thatch as this can expose the grubs to animals that want to feed on them.

You can physically pick beetles by hand as well, although most of us don't have the time or the desire to do so. If you notice grubs, you must understand that they will and are feeding on the roots of your grass, therefore, apply fertilizer with high potassium and seed in those areas in order to keep grass healthy.

Another method to control grubs in your lawn is by applying milky spore. This literally kills them and it is an environmentally safe product which is a bacteria.

Does your lawn look like a tank drove through it or some people played golf on it while you were sleeping? If so, your lawn is probably infested by white grubs. You must act quickly, before they take control of the turf. Don't miss the optimum time to get a hold of the situation. Get all the information you need about treating white grubs at Milky-Spore, it has the solution.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Tyler

If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen
Join our Facebook page  

Copyright 2009 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.


Monday, November 19, 2007

Damaged Lawns

Driving through town last week, I am surprised at how many lawns one finds here and there with damage from the summer. Some may be from the hot, dry summer. Some may have been from chinch bug damage. Hard to tell at this point in time.

Can anything be done in the middle of November? Sod may still be available so the lawn could be repaired. I would first suggest checking the lawn for grubs. These 2 lawns pictured don't look like grub problems. But, it is worthwhile checking. If there are grubs and you sod over them, the grubs aren't likely to do too much damage to the sod. Raccoons and skunks, however, may think, "hey these grubs are easy to find, and the grass was really easy to lift up!"

If you're not in the mood to sod right now, I would suggest waiting until spring to do any seeding. It is unlikely that grass seed will do too much at this time of year.

If it makes you feel better, you could purchase a small amount of grass seed and throw it over the bare spots. It may come up next spring and it may not. A little bit of grass seed is relatively inexpensive way to salve your conscience. The only problem is that by the time the ideal time to seed and repair comes around next spring, the grass seed you threw down now won't have come up so you will have to start from scratch.

So I guess the only reason to put some grass seed down now is if you are the type that only has a 50-50 chance of getting around to doing any repairs and seeding at the correct time next spring.


If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
If you would like more information, please Contact us
Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen
Join our Facebook page  

Copyright 2007 Turf King-Hamilton. All Rights Reserved.


Thursday, March 15, 2007

Vole Damage


We are getting calls from people who are unhappy with the pathways and runways that they are finding in the lawn as the snow disappears. Are they moles? Actually they are "Voles." Voles are basically the proper name for field mice. During the winter, the voles are able to run around the whole lawn under the protection of the snow. During the summer, they tend to stay in the bushes or in the fields where there is more cover. Where snow is piled up, the snow acts as a giant inflatable building which protects the voles from predators.
If you live in near a field, you are more likely to have problems with voles. The voles will migrate from the field to the lawn and the protection of the snow piles.
How do you get rid of the voles? Once the snow cover is gone, the voles will go into hiding again. If they go back to the fields, that's great. They may take up residence under the shed or under the protection of a dense shrub. So, normally, there is not a lot to do to get rid of the voles.
As far as the lawn goes, most of the lawn will recover. Often the pathways are on the surface and the grass roots will recover and grow back. There may be the odd spot that will not. We recommend that you sprinkle a little topsoil and some grass seed to speed up the recovery process. That can be done starting in early April.


If you have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF GREEN:

Turf King Home
Click here to Request a Quote Online -
or call us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)


If you would like more information, please Contact us


Follow us on Twitter  http://twitter.com/turfkingofgreen


Join our Facebook page