Although the books often talk about birds feeding on the grubs, I have personally not seen the actual birds feeding. Driving through one subdivision the other day, I snapped this photo of 2 crows in the middle of a lawn feeding on grubs.
Showing posts with label white grub. Show all posts
Showing posts with label white grub. Show all posts
Friday, October 21, 2011
Something to Crow About- NO
Although the books often talk about birds feeding on the grubs, I have personally not seen the actual birds feeding. Driving through one subdivision the other day, I snapped this photo of 2 crows in the middle of a lawn feeding on grubs.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Animals Digging in the August Lawn
Several people have called about animals digging in their lawns the past couple of weeks. They say the lawn has been torn up and has holes in it. Many times they will call and say that they think they have grubs.
At this time of year, it is still a bit early for white grubs.
If I ask them what the holes look like, most people describe it as a neat hole about the size of a golf ball. The ones I have seen are nicely cleaned out with not dirt crumbs to be seen. These holes an 1 1/2 inches around are an indication of leatherjackets.
While it is possible to see white grubs at this time of year, generally they are very small. This indicates that they are very recently hatched. Skunks and raccoons are harvesting leatherjackets right now because the leatherjackets are at what I call their pre-Thanksgiving size. Just like turkeys are harvested just before Thanksgiving, so the animals are harvesting the leatherjackets when they are at their largest size.
The baby white grubs are not worth digging for. Let them feed on the lawn for a few weeks- we can come back later when they have put on some fat.
Leatherjackets are the larvae of the adult Crane Fly.
At this stage, we don't recommend treatment. The leatherjackets are not feeding or damaging lawns. They will soon pupate and turn into adults. The adult Crane Fly looks like a giant mosquito. They don't hang around very long. They mate and the females lay eggs.
If you see a multitude of the adults, then a control application this fall or next spring may be worthwhile. This treatment is done once the eggs have hatched into larvae. The adult is hard to treat since it is a flying insect. Insect eggs are hard to control. The larvae are the easiest stage to control.
Think positive. The animals are getting rid of the leatherjackets, so that's a plus. Just put a bit of soil and some grass seed in the holes.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
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Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Wanted Dead or Alive-Grubs
Grub treatment time is coming.
Inspected a lawn today, found chinch bugs, leatherjackets and baby grubs.
Inspected a lawn today, found chinch bugs, leatherjackets and baby grubs.
This guy was not the smallest one I found, but the one that stayed still enough to pose for his mug shot.
Although there was a fairly large patch of dead, brown lawn, I'm sure that the damage was due to the many chinch bugs crawling around. The white grubs are newly hatched. Yes, they may be starting to feed, but, I think it is unlikely that they have caused damage that started 2 weeks ago.
Nematodes should be applied to lawns where there are grubs or where the risks of grub infestation is high. Nematodes have to be applied when the grubs are present. The difficulty for lawn care operators is that, not all grubs will hatch at the same time. In the lawn above, the various grubs were different sized. A smaller one was half the size of the one pictured above. Treating too early means some grubs may be missed.
Please call if you have a need for a grub treatment.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
White Grub Report
In the 7th edition of the "Turf Management Report" sponsored by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, Pam Charbonneau reports on:
Insects
New on the insect front this week are European chafer flights. They began roughly a week ago and were pretty much right on time. Flights have been heavy all week. I have spent roughly a half hour every night over the last week at dusk observing the adult emergence and flights. I really should get a life. I think people are surprised at how many adults are flying, but that is usually the situation in a wet year. The grubs were there, but there was very little turf damage.
http://bit.ly/9iSD34Here at Turf King we received an email from someone who has been seeing adult flights as well.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
White Grub Sense
Found a White Grub in a lawn today. The customer says that this week a 6-10 inch circle appeared in the lawn . The grass was not completely dead or yellow, but looked dry. About 30-40% of the grass blades had turned brown thus creating a noticeable difference within her lawn.
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One lawn expert says that the look of the grub's exoskeleton is "crinkled" which would indicate that it is ready to pupate. The peak adult flights are about 2 weeks away, so the timing seems to be right on.
The raster end of the grub identifies it as a European chafer larva. White grubs can be from European chafer, Japanese beetle, or the June beetle (June bug).
Nowadays in Ontario, the only thing you can legally use to treat white grubs is Nematodes.
www.hamiltonturfking.ca
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Fall Lawn Tasks
a List of things to do in the Autumn for your lawn
- Seeding thin, bare and weak spots
- Seeding areas where crabgrass is prevalent to help crowd it out next year
- Seeding the lawn overall to increase its density
- Topdressing to improve soil conditions
- Fall is a good time to aerate the lawn- do it along with seeding and/or topdressing
- Soil tests can help determine what nutrients are lacking
- Add horticultural lime to areas of acidity (eg under evergreens)
- Rake moss away and seed
- Fertilize now for winter hardiness and better spring colour
- Continue to mow regularly at 3 inches high
- Lower the mowing height for the last cut to prevent winter diseases
- Watch for insects- white grubs- damage will be visible now.
- Watch for crane fly adults- an indication of future problems with leatherjacket (larvae)
- Chinch bugs - are around but not for long
- Remove fallen leaves from trees before the snow comes
- Think about pruning trees to allow more light into shady areas
- Apply gypsum to areas that may be subject to salt damage -near roads, walks, etc.
Call a Lawn Care professional to set up a Lawn Program for this fall and next spring.
If you
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Sunday, September 6, 2009
Lawn Repair Time
There are several reasons why your lawn can need some help. Now is a good time to thicken the lawn.
Crabgrass can be problem in many lawns. Overseed to help crowd out crabgrass next year. If tthe lawn is thick, crabgrass is less likely to grow. Make sure to mow the lawn at 3" high. A higher mowing height is one of the things you can do to help reduce crabgrass.
Chinch bugs can also devastate a lawn and leave it in need of repair. Sometimes a homeowner says they need weed control. But sometimes it just the chinch bug damage has left the lawn thin and weak. Weeds jump into the bare and thin spots. What is perceived is a weed problem may just be the result of a chinch bug infestation.
Japanese beetles and European Chafer can lay eggs that hatch into white grubs. These larvae feed on the roots of the lawn. The only method of control for grubs is to use nematodes.
One way to seed the thin spots in the lawn is to add some soil to the bare spots. Sprinkle the soil, then level it out. Spread some high quality grass seed over the soil. Rake it lightly to help cover the seed. Water lightly daily until the seed has germinated. Keep watering as needed for a couple more weeks.
If you
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Friday, July 31, 2009
Grubs have hatched!
Grubs have hatched- at least in Dunnville, Ontario. Todd found this grub in the lawn. Look out there will be more white grub problems down the road.
These are the larvae that have just hatched from eggs. Could be from Japanese beetle or European chafer. Either way, the grubs can damage a lawn in a hurry. Here in Ontario, the only solution is to apply nematodes, a biological control.
If you
have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF
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Thursday, July 23, 2009
The Flourish of Crabgrass
Crabgrass is one unwanted guest in home lawns. It's grass blades are wider than the desirable turf. Its light green colour is not as pleasing as the darker green of the Kentucky bluegrasses and fine fescues that we prefer. Normally crabgrass flourishes in hot weather. It is doing in spite of the cool damp conditions. Here is a stand of crabgrass along the edge of a driveway.
The cooler weather is certainly better for the lawns overall. We are finding chinch bugs, but the damage overall is less severe than if it was hot and dry. White grubs are on the horizon. European chafers are out there mating and laying eggs.
On that weather note, was speaking to our favourite sweet corn grower at Snyders Corn. Apparently the heat units for this season are about 500 units below average. And if you consider that the season is around 2,700-2,800 all told, that's quite a drop. His corn is just waiting for some warm weather and sunshine.
If you
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Wednesday, July 22, 2009
White Grub that had stumped me.
A couple of years ago we found a huge white grub in the rotting stump of a tree. Looked just like a white grub we find on lawns, only bigger.
Today read a post Morgan County Herald about stag beetles whose larvae are found in stumps.
My guess is that we were looking at a stag beetle larva.
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Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Summer lawn problems noted
REEVES: Summer lawn problems noted
By Randy Reeves
Sunday, July 19, 2009
It's that time of year again — time for another season of hot summer lawn problems. As if being able to put out enough water wasn't hard enough, now we add being able to afford to have a high water bill!
Through the first part of September, we will probably start seeing more damage from chinch bugs and grub worms.
Chinch bugs thrive in hot, dry weather and feed primarily on St. Augustine grass, but can also damage centipede, Bermuda and zoysia grass. They prefer areas of the lawn that absorb heat, like areas near driveways, sidewalks or a foundation of the house.
Chinch bugs are thought to insert a toxin that kills the grass while they are feeding. They feed on stems and nodes near the base of the plant, leaving brown patches of dead grass that will continue to grow if left untreated.
Chinch bugs are small. Adults are black with white wings that will show a triangular spot on the back. If you suspect chinch bugs, look at the outer edge of the infected areas and part the grass with you hands. You will have to look quickly, though, because they move fast. Yes, you will have to get down on your hands and knees to achieve this feat!
Some folks claim that they can use a coffee can. With both ends cut out, slip the can on the ground and fill it with water. The insects will float to the top. Well, when I do this, everything floats to the top — soil, small sticks, dead grass and everything but the chinch bug!
Your next question is what to treat with if you have chinch bugs.
There are several products on the market that do a good job — Carbayl (Sevin), Acephate (Orthene) and Bifenthrin (Talstar) to name a few. The first two should be readily available at local farm supply stores in the area. As always, be sure to read and follow the label instructions on mixing and applying these products.
White grub damage can also be one of the causes. Damage from grub feeding is easy to diagnose. They feed on the roots, and the grass will easily pull up like a carpet due to the lack of a root system.
For chemical control for grubs, you can use the products listed above. Products that contain "Merit," which is one of the newer target-specific products, will also work well on grub worms.
If you select and use a granular product, you will need to be sure and water the lawn well to move the product into the root zone where the grubs are feeding. This is another reason the read and follow label directions.
Another problem we are seeing in the area — and I have been to a few home lawns to see this — is our old friend the "Take-All Patch." This lawn disease or fungus infects the roots on the stolons of lawn grass. St. Augustine and centipede grass are the main targets here.
The disease will attack the roots and weaken the turf. When we have a dramatic change in the weather, like 102-degree days and lack of rainfall, the grass is stressed and will show signs of damage.
One method of controlling this disease is to lower the soil pH to a level that the disease finds hard to survive.
One way to do this is to make an application of peat moss at a rate of one 3-cubic-foot bale per 1,000 square-foot area now, then make two to three applications of an appropriate fungicide 14 days apart in the fall.
Fungicides that will or should do a good job are Myclobutanil (Immunox), Fenarimol (Rubigan), Azoxystrobin (Heritage) or Propiconazole (Banner Maxx). Some of these fungicides listed are really expensive and you may get a case of sticker shock. Immunox is readily available, works well and is one of the less expensive ones to use.
For further information on Extension programs, call us at 903-935-8413 or visit us on the web at http://harrison-tx.tamu.edu.
IIf you
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GREEN:
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Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation
Physical Ways to Avoid White Grub Infestation
By Jackie Tyler Platinum Quality Author
A healthy lawn can endure grubs feeding on it. The damage will not be as apparent as on a lawn that is weak or stressed. Such lawns can prepare themselves. Try to provide the best environment possible for your lawn, such as proper drainage. When moisture levels in the ground are elevated, more damage will result. Proper drainage for your lawn includes removing thatch, which can't be done manually with a rake or with a dethatching machine. This will help to aerating compacted soil, aiding in proper drainage.
The eggs that the beetles lay, generally in late July or early August, are done so in a short lawn. Therefore, it is advisable to raise your lawn mower in order to lengthen the grass and discourage egg laying on your property. The optimum height for grass should be between 21/2 -- 3 inches. Other benefits that come with longer grass shards are less watering, because the soil maintains hydration longer, reducing water consumption, hence, reducing costs.
With that said, water your lawn deeply once per week only. What you are trying to achieve is water going beneath the roots to encourage deep grass roots. If you are unsure as to how much water is enough, this tip will help: place a container near your sprinkler to collect water; once the container fills with about one inch of water, that's enough.
Clean your lawn in the fall, thoroughly. Don't allow it to winterize with dead leaves or weeds. Use a rake to remove the thatch as this can expose the grubs to animals that want to feed on them.
You can physically pick beetles by hand as well, although most of us don't have the time or the desire to do so. If you notice grubs, you must understand that they will and are feeding on the roots of your grass, therefore, apply fertilizer with high potassium and seed in those areas in order to keep grass healthy.
Another method to control grubs in your lawn is by applying milky spore. This literally kills them and it is an environmentally safe product which is a bacteria.
Does your lawn look like a tank drove through it or some people played golf on it while you were sleeping? If so, your lawn is probably infested by white grubs. You must act quickly, before they take control of the turf. Don't miss the optimum time to get a hold of the situation. Get all the information you need about treating white grubs at Milky-Spore, it has the solution.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jackie_Tyler
If you
have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF
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Monday, July 20, 2009
Japanese beetles have become an annual nuisance
Japanese beetles have become an annual nuisance in yards and gardens throughout the area. They are appearing on a variety of host plants and are likely to be around for the next four to six weeks.
Japanese beetles have several characteristics that make them significant plant pests. First, they are most active in mid-day in bright sunlight, usually in large numbers. Second, they have a very wide host range because more than 200 species of trees, shrubs and flowers have been documented as feeding targets. Favorites on the list seem to be linden, maples, crabapple, elm, grape and roses.
The other characteristic that makes them significant is their feeding habit. Adult beetles congregate on the outermost foliage in bright sun and consume tissue between the veins of the leaf. This damage is called skeltonizing. Leaves will turn a very visible brown and may drop.
Finally, these pests lay eggs in the soil that hatch into white grubs, potentially creating a concern for turfgrass damage later in August and September. Seeing beetles swarming now does not necessarily mean lots of grub damage later. There is still plenty of time before they turn their attention to lawns, so watch for details on white grub management next week.
In the meantime, what can one do to stop the beetles? Foliage damage can be lessened, but not eliminated, using insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin), or products containing cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Advanced Multiinsect Killer) or labeled insecticides containing pyrethroid. Read product labels carefully before purchasing or applying them. Treatment is most often suggested for smaller plants or new transplants, rather than large established trees. The earlier the better, so act as soon as beetles start feeding.
Research has shown Japanese beetle traps may draw more beetles into the area and not into the traps, so potentially, plant damage could increase. Another option on smaller plants is to hand pick the beetles off. Drop or sweep them into a container of soapy water.
• Send questions to Bruce Spangenberg, c/o the Features Department, Northwest Herald, P.O. Box 250, Crystal Lake, IL 60039-0250.
http://www.nwherald.com/columnists/columns/2009/07/17/r_qbxatmvvqq2fm6inkc2kzq/index.xml
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Thursday, July 9, 2009
Grub protection time is coming soon
Grub protection time is coming soon. Order Now.
Grubs will be hatching soon. When they do, they have a tendency to do a lot of damage to lawns. Here in Ontario, Merit is not longer a legal product. (even though the granular Merit that we used to use is less poisonous than table salt.)Nematodes are now the only choice in Ontario. Nematodes are microscopic worms that find their way into the grubs. Once inside, they multiply and produce a toxin that knocks the grubs off the scene.
Nematodes are living organisms and need special treatment and care. They require lots of moisture to prevent them from drying and dying. Ideally, applications done during a rain are the best. Unfortunately, there aren't enough rainy days during the August-September time period that everyone who is supposed to get a nematode treatment. The folks with sprinklers are lucky- set the sprinkler system to manual ! and give the lawn a watering. This will get the nematodes off the lawn and down into the soil.
Please order your Grub Protection Now. There are indications that Nematodes may be in short supply.
If you
have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF
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White grub prevention
This link is to an article from Kansas City. We can't use the products she is suggesting here in Ontario, Canada, but the other information is helpful.Eat Your Weeds Away: Dandelion Greens
Written by Leslie QuigleyPublished on May 29th, 2009
I can remember as a kid blowing the fuzz off of a dandelion weed and making a wish. Little did I know that dandelions were nutritious. Dandelion greens are considered a leafy vegetable that contain more nutrition than broccoli. Having a higher content of vitamins A, and C, and iron. Dandelions also contain lots of magnesium and potassium.
The best time to eat dandelion greens is in the spring and early summer when the leaves are still young. Dandelion greens should be harvested in early spring, before the flowers appear. Th! ey’re a bit bitter but taste fantastic in a salad. You can als! o saute the flowers, roots and leaves with onion and garlic, serve them on a sandwich or salad, boil the leaves and serve like spinach or add them to your green smoothies like I do!
Dandelions are a natural diuretic and a spring tonic. Dandelion is used to cleanse the body naturally and is an herbal detoxification saint. It is believed that the herb produces beneficial effects by removing toxic pollutants in the body that have accumulated over time. It has also been known to prevent or cure various forms of Cancer.
Dandelions have many therapeutic benefits they support digestion, prevents anemia reduce swelling and inflammation, helps with hypertension and lowering blood sugar, treat skin problems such as eczema, warts and acne and number of other ailments including gallstones and gout. It is known as one of the most effective and beneficial herbal remedies. The roots, stems, and leaves of the dandelion excrete a white sticky resin, This sticky resin when applied! directly to warts daily, several times a day, will slowly help to dissolve them.
A few other ways to use dandelion are : Make a tea using the flowers by boiling them in water for 15 minutes, roast the roots of dandelion to make a coffee substitute and for you wine connoisseur’s try making dandelion wine.
Dandelion’s are considered weeds and are known to be pesky. Plain and simple dandelions have a bad rap! So, next time you think of a dandelion think of all the great qualities it possesses. Forage your lawn for these nutritious leafy greens rather than spray them down with toxic chemicals. For old time’s sake, you can blow a wish to health. Take advantage of their healing and cleansing benefits. Eat your weeds away!
Article at
http://ecochildsplay.com/
Somethin’ strange…in your neighbourhood?
By Jim HynesRaccoons destroying your garden, skunks living in your cabana, bats in your attic, ants in your kitchen, fungus on your tree leaves, weird worms in your lawn? Who you gonna call? Call UNIS!
McGill students Mel Lefebvre and Christie Lovat field hundreds of calls (and emails) like these every summer in a non-descript former classroom in the Raymond Building on Macdonald Campus. The two are officers at the Urban Nature Information Service (UNIS), a not-for-profit organization affiliated with McGill’s Faculty of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences providing answers to horticultural, wildlife and green-living inquiries from callers all over Quebec.
The program started as the Horticultural Information Centre back in 1982, a free service offered by the Plant Science Department. In 2001, it merged with a similar service called the Wildlife Information Centre, run by the Department of Natural Resource Sciences, to create UNIS. Today, the program is staffed by students and overseen by two coordinators: Dr. David Bird, professor of Wildlife Biology in the Department of Natural Resource Sciences, and Dr. Danielle Donnelly, a professor in the Plant Science Department.
When they can, Lefebvre and Lovat offer solutions to horticultural and wildlife dilemmas both common and unusual. They will even examine samples, of insects or damaged leaves for example, to get to the bottom of their callers’ problems.
When it comes to situations involving wild animals, however, UNIS acts as more of a referral service.
“If we are unable to help someone, like in the case of caring for an injured bird, which is illegal in Quebec without the proper permit, we can provide the numbers of organizations who can help,” says Lefebvre, who will be completing her studies in biodiversity and conservation at the McGill School of the Environment in the fall.
Every summer, UNIS staff update the list of the services they refer people to, services with names like Eco-Bug Doctor and Squirrel Rehab, to make sure the information they are providing is still accurate.
Some calls though, like the first one they received one morning in early July, can be handled with a little experience and common sense. A man in Dollard-des-Ormeaux has discovered a duck and a nest with four unhatched eggs in it near his backyard swimming pool, so Lefebvre advises him to pit the nest in a box and walk, it, slowly, to a nearby park that has a pond. Mother duck, she explains, will surely waddle behind.
Many calls to UNIS last summer, says Lovat, a Botanical Science student, were about white grubs and the animals that like to eat them ravaging suburban lawns.
“We don’t have as many white grub questions this year. A lot of our calls right now are about tree diseases. The cold spring has resulted in a lot of cold damage to trees. People are concerned that trees that were beautiful and full last year have fewer leaves and dead branches this year,” Lovat says. “In most cases we just reassure them that their tree is not dying and will come back to normal if they cut off the dead branches.”
The past two years have offered a new challenge to the UNIS officers as they got to take their know-how on the road to be shared with local municipalities and their residents. In bi-weekly visits to Terrasse-Vaudreuil, a community on the farthest reaches of the West Island, they give workshops and field questions on subjects like environmentally friendly lawn care, composting methods, white grub control, recycling, and dealing with wild animals in urban settings.
Another challenge, an ongoing one, is funding. UNIS has traditionally been funded through donations from various Quebec municipalities, a grant provided by the Federal Government, and by support from the Natural Resource Science Department. Funding cuts of any kind, UNIS says, could jeopardize the future of the service.
To reach UNIS, call 514-398-7882, email them at unis.macdonald@mcgill.ca, or visit them online at www.unis.mcgill.ca
Article from http://reporter.mcgill.ca/
Monday, April 14, 2008
What do I do if I find white grubs in the spring?
Generally speaking, we wouldn’t recommend trying to treat for grubs at this time of year. And why not?
First of all, most of the damage grubs do to you lawn is done in the fall. By spring, they are not feeding very much. In a few weeks, the grubs will pupate, and then turn into adults. The adults, then fly around, mate and the females lay eggs on lawns. The cycle then starts all over again.
Secondly, at this time of year, a grub treatment is generally not worth the cost. The products available to control grubs do not work as well in the spring. The grubs are bigger and need more insecticide to control them.
If you
have a lawn/tree/shrub that needs some Tender Loving Care- get The KING OF
GREEN:
or call
us at 905.318.6677 or 1.888.TURFKING (887.3546)
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Monday, November 5, 2007
Grub Control Comparison
One of our technicians had some white grubs at the apartments where he lives. We tried an experiment to see how well Sevin stacked up against nematodes.
We also applied Merit- even though we knew it was too late to be effective. This was done mid October.
Here's what we found 2 weeks later:
Merit did nothing- as expected
Neem Oil - did not perform
Sevin - reduced the population by about two-thirds.
Nematodes -Worked better than the Sevin. Almost all the grubs were dead.
Nematodes work best when the soil is saturated. Nematodes need the moisture to move around in the soil to get to the grubs. The lawn was watered well the night before.
see our website at www.hamiltonturfking.ca or call us at 905.318.6677
Monday, July 9, 2007
Japanese Beetle
Several people have reported the adults eating the leaves of their grapes vines and other home landscape ornamentals. Japanese adult beetle will feed on a wide range of ornamental plants. They skeletonize foliage giving it the characteristic lacy look
Adult beetles can fly. This mobility makes it harder to control them. There are several insecticides registered for the adults. Treatments may need to be repeated to ensure adequate coverage of the plants' foliage.
Japanese beetle traps are one way to eliminate the adults. Rittenhouse says their trap is to attact male beetles, but they suggest not using the trap if you don't have a problem. This trap uses sex pheromones to attract the male beetle.
Upper Canada and Natural Insect Control have a trap that uses a floral attractant as well as a pheromone that lures both sexes.
We can also use an organic foliar feed/spray containing Neem. Neem oil does not directly kill the beetles but disrupts their feeding and reproduction.
Also the Japanese beetle larvae are the White grubs which can wreak havoc on a lawn. I would recommend considering a Merit application to control the larvae.Also nematodes are a consideration to control white grubs.
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